26 Sep 2013
BACKSTAGE BEAUTY AT ANN DEMEULEMEESTER
Underneath the veil
Words and photography Katrina Yap
Today at Couvent des Cordeliers, Ann Demeulemeester brought one of the most extravagant, contrasting tonsorial spectacles of the season: sharp reed-like hair by Eugene Souleiman, juxtaposed against an airy, romantic collection of jet blacks and gothic prints. The beauty was mostly hidden by veil-like hat pieces, but we spoke to Souleiman and Rudi Cremers for M.A.C. Cosmetics backstage to find out exactly what was underneath.
“There’s a lot of movement in Ann’s clothes, and I really wanted the hair to be quite the opposite. It’s very straight, dry, and sharp. That way the girls feel stronger. We used a lot of hair spray, dried the hair off and hit it with a straightener until it was very flat, squished almost,” Souleiman described. “Then it goes into these very, very sharp points.”
As if to echo Demeulemeester’s arresting remark, “Beauty can be frightening,” Cremers explained. “The look was created for a woman looking through a veil. We wanted to keep her quite anonymous, which resulted in more technical makeup. There’s not too much mixing and blending of products—just clear lines. The eyebrows are quite horizontal, supplemented by the Penultimate Eyeliner in Rapid Black to really fill them up. There’s a lot of highlights, in the middle of the eye, inner corner, very high on the cheekbones. Under the veil, there is still some extra shine.” Because at some point, you may want to shine through